Rome has been luring British tourists hungry for sun, spaghetti and ancient monuments for decades. Whether it's grabbing a gelato by the Spanish Steps à la Audrey in Roman Holiday, or living the high life of The Talented Mr Ripley, the old school, cinematic glamour of the Italian capital reels us in every time. But the Eternal City is changing – its antiquities have been restored but new laws on public eating mean you can no longer chow down on a slice of pizza as you wander around. Rome's mayor has even outlawed throwing coins in the Trevi Fountain. There goes our chance of a summer romance...
Now that Rome's typical tourist destinations are losing their lustre, more and more visitors are finding their own path. Navigating the gladiator re-enactments and selfie sticks can be tricky but stick with it – beyond the tourist traps, the city is now a vibrant hub of culture, food and music, worlds away from its storied past. It's enough to make you go all La Dolce Vita.
To help guide you around these less familiar areas, we’ve put together a list of 20 of the best ways to do Rome like a local. Click through to discover where to eat, drink, dance and see great art.